Tyler's Ultimate French Onion Soup a la Terri

A couple of weeks ago, I made one of my absolute favorite all-day recipes. I must have been having some pregnancy cravings for onions, because I found myself making a trip to the grocery store to buy sour cream, Lay's potato chips, and dried onion soup mix, plus the ingredients to make this real soup (not from a package...).  I didn't realize the pattern till I got home. Onions? Why not!

The reason it's an all-day recipe is because it takes a while to prep that many onions, and then to caramelize them properly, it takes hours of low and slow heat. If you turn the heat up too high, you'll grill or char them which is not what you want. You want them to become beautifully dark brown and that takes sweet, sweet time. But it's worth every hour!

This recipe is inspired by Tyler Florence from his show Tyler's Ultimate. It is painfully simple - one of the shortest recipes I use (and a quick one to memorize so I don't actually use it any more), the only thing that makes it not a staple is the time required. It is also one of the few recipes that I don't really modify (you'll see the few modifications that I do make, and they're pretty typical for me). Most recipes I make my own in one way or another, but this is one of the few that stays almost entirely intact right up until the very end.

Giving all due credit, here's the original recipe. I'll break it down now with my (slight) edits.

Tyler's list below, my edits are in italics
Ingredients
1/2 cup unsalted butter
4 onions, sliced I typically use more onions than this... many MANY more because I make this a huge batch at a time, and also because I like a heartier/chunkier soup with more onion pieces. Personal preference!
2 garlic cloves, chopped I also (obviously) add more garlic because it's me. 
2 bay leaves
2 fresh thyme sprigs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup red wine, about 1/2 bottle
3 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 quarts beef broth
1 baguette, sliced
1/2 pound grated Gruyere I do my croutons/cheese differently... we'll get to that at the end. 

Below are the instructions. Go to the website above to see a condensed version of the original recipe to print / cook from. Similar to above, I'll add my commentary in bold italics along with my pictures. This particular batch had more modifications than usual because I got creative in the onion department. I had a bunch of white onions on hand, a couple of red onions, yellow onions were on sale at the store, I had just harvested the scallions from my garden that had been growing all summer, I had some scallions in the fridge, and the leeks looked irresistibly beautiful at the store that morning, so I added those in too. Tons of different things from the onion family that all added to the complexity of this particular batch of soup. Loved it, but it's still super delicious with just a few regular white or yellow onions.

One note: you do not need to splurge for vidalia, Spanish, or sweet onions to make a sweeter soup. The reason is that when you caramelize onions as much as you need to for this recipe, I don't care what kind you start with, they will all become incredibly sweet by the time you're done, (plus I even add sugar to help the caramelization process), so you don't need to spend the extra $$ to start with sweet onions.

Added first step: prep all the onions. The recipe here says "sliced" but I don't slice them. After all, this is FRENCH onion soup, so you should French your onions - and yes, that is a thing. See below for pictures of how to French your onions rather than slicing them. If you don't want to learn this it's no problem, you can obviously still slice them. But to be honest this is actually less work, and it makes for a better texture in the soup IMO. If you're skipping this step, skip past the flip-book of onion slicing pictures below and get to the step where they're all prepped on my cutting board.

Here is my menagerie of onions

To prep my onions, I start off by cutting off the top and bottom, then slicing it in half from top to bottom (creating an east and west hemisphere), removing the paper, and then get ready to FRENCH!

Here's a photo series of me Frenching onions - basically cut from the edge in towards the bottom-middle. With each slice, you're cutting to the same point in the bottom-middle of the onion half. 

Then when you've gotten through half of the half, lay it down again, and start over from the other side (unless you're ambidextrous, in which case switch hands with the knife. But I'm not and I'm quite partial to all my fingers, so I flipped the onion).

Here are all my onions cleaned and ready to be Frenched!

I love the mild onion flavor that leeks provide. When using leeks, you only use the white and light green parts, so when I saw this beauty in the store I had to get it! The white part was the majority of the leek, so I knew I'd be able to use most of it which doesn't always happen!

Leeks are grown in sandy soil, and that sandy soil can often get in between the layers. So when you're preparing leeks, first cut off the hairy end. Then peel off the outside layer to clean it. Then cut it in half down the middle. Lay each half flat-side down on the cutting board, and cut your leeks into half-moons. 

Rinse the half-moons thoroughly under water rubbing them with your fingers to make sure you get all the silt out from between all the layers. 

On the left are store-bought scallions, on the right are ones from my garden. The ones on the right at one point started like the ones on the left, but after a summer of real soil, they are much hardier and healthier. When I use green onions (aka scallions), I only use the green and top of the white part, and I save an inch or two on the hairy end. I soak the roots in a cup of water until they re-sprout out top. Once I get some growth, I put the roots in my garden and they regrow into the beauties on the right. Then when I want scallions, I just go to the garden and cut what I need without clear-harvesting and pulling up the bulb, so that way I have scallions all summer long! This was getting to the end of the season though, so I clear-harvested my scallions, and that's what they looked like. I just sliced these on a bias.

Melt the stick of butter in a large pot over medium heat. I also add a few turns of olive oil. Add the onions, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, sugar and salt and pepper and cook until the onions are very soft and caramelized, about 25 minutes. Lies. This takes hours. 

This was the pot I was going to use... this is about 2/3 of the onions I prepped. I knew they would cook down a TON, but I didn't have room for them all initially!!

I still had this many onions left, plus the leek and scallions... gonna need a bigger pot!

Here's why you don't add salt yet (sorry Tyler!) and in fact, you add ~1 tsp of sugar instead. You add salt when you want to "sweat" vegetables. Adding salt pulls the moisture out of vegetables, and they basically boil / steam in their own juices. Doing this prevents vegetables from browning. And if you learn anything from this post, it's that BROWN FOOD TASTES GOOD!!!! (Thanks Anne Burrell for that gem.)  However, what turns brown when cooked? Sugar! What happens when you cook sugar till it's brown? You get caramel. What are we trying to do to the onions? CARAMELIZE them!! DING DING DING!!!! That's why some of the veggies that caramelize the best have high sugar content - think onions, sweet potatoes, beets, carrots, even zucchini. And adding a small amount of sugar will really help this process along. So just ~1 tsp is all you need, and make sure you don't add salt until the caramelization process is over; but beware, you'll definitely need to season to taste to make sure that you add enough salt to balance out the added sugar. 

 

 That completely full pot + the remaining onions on my cutting board cooked down to this after about 15-20 mins.

Finally enough room to add the leeks!

Note to self: Tying my thyme in a bundle like this didn't work so well for me... the thyme disintegrated into the soup (as it should), leaving me with loose stems and a string to fish out. Next time, I'll add it in an herb sachet that I can pull out all at once, or I'll just toss in the sprigs like I usually do and pull out the stems once it's done cooking and the leaves have fallen off. 

I finally upgraded to a bigger pot with enough room for all the ingredients. This is after ~45 minutes of caramelizing low and slow. Mmmmmmm...

This is after well over an hour. To be honest, I could have let it go for at least another 45 minutes, but I was getting impatient. The darker, the better at this step - this was probably 3/4 of the way to perfection. This is the step when you're building the key flavors of your soup.

Add the wine, 

A common misconception is that you buy cheap cooking wine. False. Never cook with wine that you're not willing to drink because as you cook with it, the flavors concentrate. So if you start with shitty wine, your food will taste strongly of shitty wine when you're done. Unfortunately, we drink cheap wine in our house, so it is what it is. Such is life. We have two types of wine at home: the really nice stuff that we've received as gifts or bought for ourselves from Napa which is signed by the wine maker, and this crap that we drink (or drank in my case) on weeknights. Yes you should cook with "good" wine, but our good wine is really good wine, I plan to drink that stuff (once the baby comes), not cook with it. So we cook with our cheap shit, but it still follows the rule bc we drink it too. See guys, I keep it real with you... no trying to be fancy here, you see things as they really are!! Also, if you don't have a double-hinged wine opener, then 1) you were never a server in your life, and 2) you're not really living. They cost like $6. Get one now.

Bring to a boil,

reduce the heat and simmer until the wine has evaporated and the onions are dry, about 5 minutes. Lies again, this takes more like 15-20 mins

You can see the bottom of my pot shimmering in the camera's flash in the upper-left corner of this picture. Again I probably could have gone a few more minutes at this step, but I wanted soup.

Discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Dust the onions with the flour and give them a stir. Turn the heat down (turn down for what? For soup!!) to medium low so the flour doesn't burn, and cook for 10 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste.

Here's my onions/wine with added flour.

Now add the beef broth, bring the soup back to a simmer, and cook for 10 minutes. Season, to taste, with salt and pepper. (Not pictured, because there's nothing noteworthy about this step). The season to taste part is important because of the added sugar, you need to make sure the end product isn't too sweet. They key is that as you're adding the broth, you need to really whisk the heck out of the pastey onion-flour mixture to avoid getting flour clumps in your soup.

When you're ready to eat, preheat the broiler. Arrange the baguette slices on a baking sheet in a single layer. Sprinkle the slices with the Gruyere and broil until bubbly and golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
Ladle the soup in bowls and float several of the Gruyere croutons on top.

That's Tyler's method to finish off the soup. Up to this point, he is spot on with every step of the soup, layering in complex flavors at every turn, and it would be delicious as described. BUT I've spent 4 years of my life in Wisconsin. A polite sprinkling of Gruyere is not going to cut it for me. At this step in the soup building process, I flash back to the French onion soup I grew up eating that my parents made. I use their method of layering homemade croutons and a variety of cheese that is gooey and delicious. 

We begin with said homemade croutons. I like a lot of bread in my French onion soup, so one little baguette slice is not going to cut it. I have homemade croutons in my freezer frequently, because it's my favorite thing to do with bread that is going / about to go stale. You can see my bag of stale bread slices that I popped in the freezer when they were a few days old and turning. Preheat your oven to 300 degrees. I cube the bread, put it in a single layer on the sheet pan, drizzle with olive oil, and toss the bread to somewhat evenly coat with the olive oil. It'll never be coated perfectly, but do what you can. I then sprinkle evenly with garlic powder, onion powder, and Lawry's seasoned salt (which are the dry ingredients in homemade Chex mix. Coincidence? I think not! This is my Dad's recipe for croutons, and Chex mix is our favorite thing ever, so we use that seasoning combination a lot). 

Bake in your 300 degree oven and toss the croutons every 5-10 minutes. Keep an eye on them since cooking time will vary depending on how dry your bread is and how hot your oven is, but pull them out when they start to turn golden and are dry and crunchy. 

Now that the croutons are done, let's talk cheese. As a base, start with a swiss-like cheese. It can be Swiss, Gruyere, Emental, or whatever else in that family. If you want to be straight forward, you can't go wrong with Swiss. If you want to get fancy, talk to your local cheese monger (if you don't have a cheese monger, again, you aren't really living). But you want that sharp flavor with a slight funk. Then you'll want something salty with a little bit of a bite and an ooey gooey texture- my favorite is muenster, but you can also do monterey jack, brick, varieties of Edam, etc. And to top it, you want a super sharp, salty cheese that will still melt, so Parmesan or Asiago would be good, but likely not romano because it doesn't really melt. To make life easier, I get the base layer in slices, I shred the middle layer, and grate the top layer. I went cheapo this time with the cheeses, but you can make it as fancy as you want.

And now, we assemble. First, pre-heat your broiler. I don't have oven-safe soup crocks (uni-taskers, so nope), and my ramekins are too little, so I use the bottom of Pyrex storage containers bc they're oven-safe!  Again, no pretenses here guys, you get to see me working in my natural environment! Ladle the soup into your oven-safe container, then float as many croutons as you want on top. As I said, I like a lot of bread in my soup so I really pack em in there. And can we just take a moment to admire how GORGEOUS that soup base looks before it gets all dressed up?? I'm telling you, BROWN FOOD TASTES GOOD!!!!

Then start layering your cheeses. As noted (and given the selections I went with), I did the slice of Swiss first, then the shredded Muenster, and finally topped it with the grated parmesan. Put your dishes on a baking sheet since it's likely to bubble over if you did it right. Pop it under your broiler on the top rack for however long it takes for the cheese to get melty and gooey and brown and bubbly and amazing, usually 5-15 mins.

I'm drooling.

And the best part about this recipe is that the leftovers taste just as good. Extra soup base can be refrigerated or frozen. I'll grate/shred all my cheese at once and save it in the fridge. Then when I want more soup, I'll ladle some into my dish, microwave it till hot, then assemble with croutons and cheese, broil for 10 mins, and I have fresh French onion soup any time I want with minimal additional effort. That's why I make a HUGE batch of the base, because that's the part that takes so much time, though it takes no more time to make a big batch vs. a little one, and then I can have fresh soup for a week or two... or however long it lasts in my fridge! 

Seriously?!?! I'm sad I just ran out of left overs. 

Decadent Garlic Bread - Fancy Trashy Food

There are a thousand different versions of garlic bread. There's a Paula Deen style recipe with mayonnaise and cheddar cheese that is more like a sandwich than it is a side dish. Then there's the other end of the spectrum that I described in my post about garlic. You take a slice of good crusty Italian bread, grill it over high heat, then rub it with a fresh clove of garlic, and brush with a little olive oil. So simple, but so perfect!! 

This recipe falls somewhere in between. It's cheesy and buttery and decadent, but it's made with ingredients that you would expect to see in "garlic bread" i.e. no mayo and no yellow cheese.

Disclaimer: this is also where you see my frugal side come out. I wanted to make the garlic bread and had most of the ingredients... except the bread. But what I did have were some brioche hamburger buns in my freezer. So I made do. It looks a little silly, but don't judge - they were delicious!!

You'll start out by roasting a head of garlic following the technique that I described in my All About Garlic post

These roasted cloves will be the base for the topping for our decadent bread. Other ingredients you'll need are grated parmesan cheese, Italian Seasoning (herbs only, no sodium), olive oil, salt and pepper.

Start out by squeezing the roasted garlic out of each of the cloves, and then mashing it into a paste with a fork. Please avoid eating all of this roasted garlic deliciousness with a spoon... it will certainly be tempting. 

After you have your roasted garlic paste, you'll add in the other ingredients. To make 2 buns' worth of topping (2 halves each, so 4 total pieces) I used about 1/3 cup of Parmesan cheese, 1 tbsp oil, 1 tbsp butter, and a dash of salt and pepper. You don't need too much butter or oil because the roasted garlic has a lot of moisture, and as the bread bakes the cheese will give of some oil too. But you do need some!! 

Continue mashing with your fork until all ingredients are combined, then top your bread (or buns as it were) and pop them into a 350 degree oven.

  















I like to bake them until the topping starts to get a little golden, but you also need to make sure that the bread is getting heated too so that it becomes crispy on the bottom, as good garlic bread should be. So just watch it closely so that your each that balance. If the bottom of the bread seems to be browning/crisping too fast and the topping hasn't melted and turned golden, then switch to the broiler so that the top gets the finishing touch. If the top is getting too browned and the bottom isn't browning quickly enough, then move your oven rack down one or two positions. As I keep saying all ovens are different, so play this one by ear. But trust me, the results will be WELL worth it!! 

Behold! My decadent, frugal, borderline trashy but still sorta fancy over-the-top roasted garlic bread... I mean buns. Seriously, don't judge.

Wednesday's GHI: Cast Iron Skillet

I love my cast iron pan, and for most protein I cook it is definitely my go-to. The key with cast iron is that it needs to be properly cared for. So for today's Gotta Have It, I'll tell you why I love my cast iron pan, and what I do to make sure it treats me right. If you don't have one, you should get one. They're not that expensive, but are so incredibly versatile. You can use it on the stove, in the oven, on the grill, at a camp site - they are indestructible, and so easy to maintain as long as you do it right. 

The usefulness of a cast iron pan comes in its weight. Because it is such a heavy-bottomed pan, when you preheat it for long enough, you get incredibly even heat distribution. This means that if you're cooking chicken breasts, you're not going to have hot spots and cool spots in the pan, the whole thing will be hot. Because of this even heat distribution and the fact that it holds heat well, this makes it wonderful for frying. You won't get as big of a drop in temperature when you put your foods in to fry (usually if you heat oil in a normal pan, you drop in your items to be fried, and the oil will drop in temperature, sometimes significantly! With cast iron, because the pan itself retains so much heat, it helps keep the oil more evenly hot even when you drop your food in). This means that your food will be less greasy, as you'll have less temperature fluctuations with the oil. The other great use for cast iron is cooking anything for people who are iron deficient. When cooking in a cast iron pan, it actually imparts a little bit of iron into the food that you cook into it. Unless your doctor is concerned about you getting too much iron, this is not a problem. For most people, it's actually a bonus because a lot of us don't get enough iron in our diets.

Caring for your cast iron pan is very important but also very easy. When you get it, the first thing you need to do is season it. This does not mean adding salt and pepper, it means baking a layer of oil onto the entire surface of the pan. This actually gives it a natural non-stick coating, and also protects it from rusting. 

To season your pan, choose an oil with a high smoke point (plain vegetable or canola oil, do not use olive oil for this). Dab a paper towel into the oil and rub the pan down inside and out - cover every surface of the pan with oil. Then put it in an EMPTY oven set to about 300 degrees, and bake it for several hours - 2 or 3 to start. I know it seems a little wasteful and you may be tempted to multi-task by putting something in the oven to cook while you're seasoning your pan, but resist that temptation. The steam created by any food cooking will mess up the process, so you need to just bite the bullet and only bake the pan in an otherwise empty oven. After baked for 2-3 hours, turn off the oven, let it cool (this will also take a couple of hours... remember how well cast iron retains its heat?), and repeat. You'll go through this process a couple of times, adding very thin layers of oil each time. When seasoned properly, this will become a permanent fixture of your cast iron pan. When you cook the first couple of times a little bit of it may come off, but it's nothing to worry about. 

Now that your pan is seasoned, it is relatively non-stick and ready to cook with! I love doing things in the cast iron that need to be started on the stove and finished in the oven. Any meat (chicken breasts, pork chops, steaks, etc), brussel sprouts (recipe to come), and also frying like I mentioned. If properly seasoned, you can cook with anything, even acids. I love making a pan sauce after cooking meat which typically involves deglazing the pan with wine or something else acidic. This is ok to do as long as it's been seasoned.

The key though is now that your pan is seasoned, you can NEVER LET SOAP TOUCH IT. EVER! May I repeat, do not ever use soap to wash a seasoned cast iron pan! Soap is a degreaser, which means that it will remove that layer of oil which you so painstakingly worked to bake on there. The solution is actually super easy and is another reason why I love using my cast iron pan - washing it is a breeze! All you need is table salt, and if necessary some iron wool. 

I just use cheap plain table salt, don't waste your good sea salt or kosher salt on this. After you're done cooking and the pan has cooled enough to handle, first rinse the pan out with hot water. After you've rinsed it and scraped off the big pieces with a spatula, sprinkle the salt liberally and start with your hands - rub it into the pan like you're giving it a salt scrub... which you are. The abrasiveness of the salt will scrape off any pieces of food that might be stuck. If you have any stubborn pieces you can use some iron wool, but it isn't usually necessary. Once you've scrubbed the salt all around and it's picked up all the pieces of whatever you cooked, just rinse thoroughly. 

They key then is after each time you use the pan, do a quick re-seasoning. It's likely that because all you used is salt, the pan is still a little greasy from whatever you cooked. This is a good thing! Just put the pan back on the stove, turn on a burner, and let it heat up for about 10-15 minutes. This will bake that layer of oil into the seasoning you've already started, and it will continue to help protect the pan. 

Now that you know the proper way to care for your cast iron pan, enjoy using it!! It's a phenomenal kitchen tool!! 

Grilled Zucchini with Minted Lime Dressing

Mike grew up eating grilled zucchini that his dad would make "Greek style" which just means with olive oil and lemon juice. His dad would slice the zucchini lengthwise into long, thick strips, then drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper, grill over high heat, then toss with lemon juice and a little more olive oil. Don't get me wrong, it's delicious. But I've recently found and adapted a recipe for grilled zucchini that... dare I say... I like even better! 

The inspiration for this recipe comes from a grilled squash and prosciutto recipe from Food & Wine's website that I made for Mike's 30th birthday party this year. But like most things I try to cook, I don't have all of the ingredients, so I adapt it to use whatever I have on hand. 

I started with 3 petite zucchini from the Madison farmer's market (which is my happy place, for the record). I sliced them on a bias on the mandolin between 1/8 and 1/4 inch thickness. Then I rubbed them down with olive oil, and Mike took them outside to grill them. While he was grilling, I made the dressing.

The dressing was so simple. I took the top 6 inches of 3 mint sprigs from my garden, and did a chiffonade on the leaves. This mint form my garden grew out of scraps. Last year I needed mint and what they had in the store was "living" herbs that still had a little root bulb. I bought no more mint from the store than what I used in this recipe, and it's grown into this bush you see here! 

Then since I didn't have lime zest, I used about 1 tbsp of lime juice from a bottle that I keep in the fridge. To that I added 1-2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil, and about 1 tsp of garlic paste that I had in the fridge (if you remember from my garlic post, I had to go buy a tube of the stuff to do research, and I determined that it would be best to use in raw applications like dressings. So I put those cloves back and reached for the tube instead!). Otherwise I would have run 2 cloves through the garlic press. After adding a pinch of salt and pepper and giving it a good stir, the dressing was ready to go!

 And as long as I had the mint and the lime juice out, I whipped up a little mojito for myself... muddled mint with sugar and lime juice, add some rum, and simple syrup, and shake with ice. Pour into a glass with some soda water, and garnish with another fresh sprig of mint... it was the perfect dinner cocktail to compliment my zucchini.

 The last challenge is that I don't keep prosciutto laying around. That would be a crime... if I have prosciutto sitting in my fridge, it will be gone within 24 hours. But part of what makes this recipe so successful is the way that each of your different taste buds has something to do! Sweet from the zucchini and mint, sour from the lime, a little bitter from the pepper, umami from the garlic, and.... salt from the prosciutto! But without prosciutto, just adding some extra salt could have worked but it would have been lacking the extra umami that you get from the cured meat. So I scanned my fridge and found that I had some feta cheese - perfect!!! So after the zucchini was beautifully grilled, I drizzled on the dressing and tossed it all together. And lastly, took some of that salty feta and crumbled it into the smallest pieces possible and let it soften slightly over the hot zucchini. For a recipe that only took me a few minutes to throw together, this came out fantastic. I look forward to making it for a grill out we're having in a few weeks!