Friday, June 27, 2014

All About Garlic

This is a subject so very near and dear to my heart... Garlic! It is my #1 favorite ingredient, I put it in everything I can get away with, I would figure out a way to put it in desserts if you would let me! 

Garlic is an incredible flavor additive, it can be the star of the dish if done properly, but it can also overpower a dish if not used carefully. I have some tips for getting the most of your garlic. 

You guys are getting a sense of how much I love garlic, so that means I'm going to have a lot lot say about it!! Grab a nice crisp white wine (I would suggest sauvignon blanc, of course. My go-to wine choice), some crusty garlic bread, and hunker down to learn a lot about my absolute favorite ingredient.

First, a note on garlic in some of its different forms. 

Dried
  • Garlic powder: dehydrated garlic cloves that have been ground into a very fine powder resembling powdered sugar in consistency. 
  • Granulated garlic: similar to garlic powder, but this has the consistency of regular sugar. 
  • Garlic salt/garlic blend: typically granulated garlic mixed with salt in about a 50/50 mix. Other garlic "blends" may include other herbs and spices, often onion powder, parsley, basil, or others. 
My preference: granulated garlic. I like to be in strict control of the amount of sodium I put in my food. Because I don't really know how much of the garlic salt is garlic and how much is salt, that leaves some uncertainty which I don't appreciate. Also, you almost always season food with salt and pepper anyway, if for no reason out of habit, so you're double salting which will increase your sodium consumption unnecessarily and also affect the taste. So because of that, garlic salt or garlic blends are out in my book. The one exception to this is Lawry's seasoned salt which is basically salt, garlic powder, onion powder, and some sugar. The difference though is that I use it the same way that I would use salt, I don't think of it as a "spice." 

So that leaves powdered vs granulated. And this just comes down to personal preference, but I opt for granulated because it is easier to work with. The powdered tends to puff out when I try to pour it directly from the container and it makes a garlicky mess on my counter. Or it clogs my DIY spice rack container and is hard to get out - I have to shake a lot, and it tends to clump. So I prefer the granulated because it shakes nicely, pours beautiful (think sand falling through an hourglass). It also has a little more of that garlic bite, which I love. But if you don't want that, just use a little less and you can avoid it. I use granulated garlic when I'm making salads (my standard dressing that goes on 90% of my salads is olive oil, salt, granulated garlic, and either red wine or balsamic vinegar). It's also good in baked goods (when I want to make garlic rolls) or my go-to quickie dinner is gluten free pasta, some butter, granulated garlic, and parmesan cheese. So simple, but that's the best comfort food for me.

Prepared
Minced garlic: I grew up using this stuff. This is the pre-minced garlic that comes in those little glass containers with the blue lid and is floating in a mystery liquid. My parents used to buy this stuff from Sam's club because we went through so much of it! And from a convenience perspective, you can't beat it. You scoop out however much you need with a spoon, toss it in whatever you're making, and you're good to go. But from a flavor perspective, I've learned that this doesn't hold a candle to the real deal. Now that I've experienced the beauty of fresh garlic, I will never go back to this stuff. PLUS, if you read my last post about how to use a garlic press, you'll see my comment about most people leaving the "butts" on the cloves. This type of garlic still has the butts on when it was minced by a machine, so every once in a while you bite into this really unpleasant crunchy piece, which I do not enjoy. This goes for any size of cut garlic in mystery liquid (sliced, crushed, etc.)

Garlic Paste: This typically comes prepared in a tube, and I I had never actually used it before. But if I want to be the expert on all things garlic, I need to be well-versed! So while writing this post, I went and picked up a tube. Here's my report: it's just ok. It's not great, it's not the worst. But what I don't like is that the ingredient list is very long. Longer than it should be. It's got a lot of preservatives, salt, citric acid, etc. and you can taste those things. When I taste it raw, I can taste the acidity, I can taste the extra salt, but overall, it tastes somewhat similar to raw garlic (more similar than the jarred stuff). So when using this, adjust the recipe and use less salt, or a little less acidic ingredients like lemon or vinegar if applicable. Ok in raw applications and sauces, I would not recommend sauteing it.

Pre-peeled garlic: This comes as individual cloves that have already had the paper removed (butts are still on though! I seriously am the only person I know who seems to care about this :-P ) . I approve of these because there is no mystery liquid involved! And the process to remove the paper is strictly mechanical and does not involve any chemicals (see here) My friend and I used to buy a huge package of these from the Asian Markets in Koreatown on the northside of Chicago and split it because there's no way one of us could use that whole package, even with the way that I cook! 

So when it comes to using actual garlic (not dried), you know that I prefer fresh. Check out my post here to see how to prepare cloves to be worked with, and how to use the garlic press. The first few steps are the same (smashing, peeling, cutting off the butts) no matter what preparation technique you use, so here are some other ways you can prepare garlic, and why the difference matters.

Using Garlic
It is important to understand why preparing garlic in different ways matters. Over the next few weeks, my recipes will feature many of the different preparation styles I'm about to describe and you can taste the difference for yourselves if you cook along with me :) The reason there is a difference in flavor has everything to do with the essential oils contained in garlic. At a cellular level, the oils contain all their garlicky goodness. When you break down the cell wall, the oils are released and the flavor is let loose on your taste buds. So the more you break down the cell walls (i.e. the more damage you do to the clove), the more garlic flavor you're going to get. Keep this in mind - sometimes you want a more subtle flavor, so you don't want to do much to the clove. Sometimes you want a big garlic punch, so you're going to want to murder that thing.

First I'll describe different ways to cook it, then I'll get into different ways to prepare raw garlic for whatever cooking technique you're using.

Are you guys getting how much I LOVE garlic yet??!?!?!

Cooking Techniques
Roasting - This is one of my favorites! You take a whole head of garlic and slice the whole thing in half into a northern and southern hemisphere. 

Drizzle with olive oil, wrap in foil, and roast in the oven at 300 - 325 degrees for an hour. Every oven varies especially at low temps, so just watch it and see how long yours takes. The key here is low and slow - if you use too much heat, the outside of the cloves will brown before the insides are cooked. You want the whole thing to brown slowly and evenly. 


When it's roasted till brown, you literally squeeze the roasted cloves out of the paper in these delicious little packets of gooey garlicky goodness. No need to worry about the butts here, they stay attached to the base and only garlic comes out. When I do this, it always reminds me of that scene in The Little Mermaid when Ursula puts on her lipstick from some sea creature haha!! I'm such a Disney nerd!!!


Roasting garlic gives it the most amazing flavor. It becomes sweet, mild, and perfect. I use this as the base for my decadent garlic bread recipe. You can also use it as the base for all types of sauces, dips, spreads, whatever. 

Sauteing - The trickiest part about using garlic is not over-cooking it. Depending on how small the pieces are that you're using, garlic can be cooked in as little as 30 seconds, and burned in as few as 60-90. Burned garlic is not a flavor you want in your food. It is bitter, pervasive, and can ruin a dish, so be very careful! The most common rule of thumb is that as soon as you can smell the garlic, give it a few more seconds, and then you're done!! If you cook it longer than that, you've over-done it. You'll want to think about when you need to add the garlic to your dish, remembering that it should only cook in oil for about a minute. If you're making, say, a marinara sauce, you'll heat your olive oil until shimmering but not smoking, add in your diced onion, and when it's almost done cooking you toss in your minced garlic for about a minute. Then as soon as it becomes fragrant you add in your tomatoes and then simmer all afternoon. Once you add the liquid, the garlic is no longer "sauteing," it's now braising and not at risk of burning. But if you're doing an olive-oil only sauce for pasta, it cooks in the olive oil the whole time before being tossed with the pasta, so you'll want to add it right at the end before you're about to combine everything together. Make sense? Garlic + oil + heat = ~60 seconds of cook time, even if other dry-ish ingredients are involved. Once you add liquid, you're safe.

Using raw - There are only a handful of cases where I use raw garlic, and they're all dressings or sauces. This makes sense because it is a VERY strong flavor! Skordalia is a Greek garlic sauce that I am obsessed with... I need to learn how to make it from Mike's aunt!! It uses raw garlic. Tzatziki sauce uses raw garlic too (seeing a trend here...). Mike's cabbage salad I wrote about a couple of weeks ago uses a few cloves of raw garlic in the dressing. I recently made grilled zucchini and prosciutto skewers with a raw garlic-lime-mint dressing that was fantastic. The dressing in my favorite pasta salad calls for raw garlic too. I'll occasionally mix up a homemade salad dressing that uses raw garlic. I'll be including all of these recipes over time, since they're delicious. You see the pattern... usually in raw applications, dressings, and used sparingly.

Baking - There's not much you need to know about baking, except that the smaller the pieces are that you use, the more likely it is to burn while being baked since you have less control than when sauteing. For example when I do Greek chicken with lemon, olive oil, oregano, and garlic, I use the Smashed Clove technique, or I use slices. They burn less easily that way while still flavoring the dish.

Grilling - I would recommend against using garlic in something that will be going on the grill. Given the high temp of grilling, it's very likely to burn. I would recommend grilling your dish and then using garlic in a raw application as a dressing / sauce after grilled.

How to Prepare Raw Garlic
I'm writing this in order of "less mutilated" to "most mutilated" - aka most mild garlic flavor to most intense garlic flavor. 

From Left to Right: Sliced, Minced, Pressed

Whole clove - this is where you don't do anything to the clove besides peel the paper off of it. The time when you would use this is if you're making authentic garlic bread. I'm not talking about my decadent recipe described above... I'm talking about a crusty loaf of Italian bread sliced on a bias, grilled over a hot flame, kissed with some garlic, and brushed with fantastic quality extra virgin olive oil. This is the type of bread you'd use for a fresh bruschetta or with prosciutto and melon... I'm drooling. All you do is peel the paper off the clove, and then after your bread has been grilled (or under the broiler for a minute or two), take it out and rub the whole clove on the crusty side of the bread. That's it!! It's basically just going to take some of the essential oils from the part of the clove that gets a little torn up from the crusty bread, and it will give your bread the most delicious hint of garlic without being too overpowering. Then brush on some good quality olive oil, maybe a little salt and pepper, and you're done. This is the authentic way of making garlic bread, it's so simple and perfect... less is definitely more if you're working with quality ingredients!

Smashed clove - Follow steps 1 and 2 from my last garlic post - smash and peel. You can leave the butts on for this one because you'll never actually eat the clove itself. But when you smash it for this technique, really smash the crap out of it. This is the only "manipulation" of the clove you're going to do, so you want to release as many of the essential oils as possible and really bust it up while keeping it in tact. What you do with a whole smashed clove is flavor cooking oil. This will give you a great, subtle garlic flavor that will permeate the entire dish you're cooking. You measure out the oil required, toss in your couple of smashed cloves, saute until the cloves are just beginning to brown and have become very fragrant. This is the exception to the ~60 second rule, because you're cooking with whole cloves. Because there's much less surface area since it's still in tact, you need to cook it for longer to get the flavor you need. So as soon as the cloves begin to brown and turn fragrant, you scoop them out of the oil and discard them (or in my case, add them to the foil for your latest batch of roasted garlic!). You now have garlic-flavored olive oil that will give a beautiful, more subtle flavor.

Sliced - Slicing garlic is an awesome way to prepare it. You get a good amount of garlic flavor, but it's not too overpowering. This is somewhat counter-intuitive because the pieces of garlic are bigger, you'd assume you'll get these big bursts of garlic flavor. But remember that the longer you cook it low and slow, the more mild and sweet the flavor gets. So you'll slice garlic if you're going to be baking it or cooking it on the stove at a low temp for a longer time so it browns just slightly, but very evenly. I used sliced garlic to make this delicious shrimp tapas recipe that I brought with Mike and I on a picnic last summer. 

Minced - After slicing, if you keep running your knife through the pile of slices, you'll eventually end up with minced garlic. Mincing is knife cut that creates very small pieces of something. Technically you want all the pieces to be the same size, but who has time for that when you're working with such a teeny ingredient? So I just run my knife through it a bunch of times. For this, I like to use my German-style chef's knife, which is better for the continuous rocking motion that is used to mince. If you remember from my post about chef's knives, the curved bottom of the German style is better for this compared with the flat bottom of the Japanese style.

Pressed - See last garlic post.

Paste - You can make a garlic paste that can be used in raw applications (dressings), or is a great way to infuse a marinade with delicious garlic flavor. What you do is after you have the minced garlic on your cutting board, you'll add about 1 teaspoon of kosher salt for ever 2 cloves of garlic you minced. After adding the salt, you're going to scrape the garlic / salt mixture against your cutting board using the wide part of the blade of your knife. Almost like you're laying grout for tile, you scrape against the cutting board. Over and over again, pushing the paste off your knife and re-forming the pile as you go. The Kosher salt helps in cutting up the cell walls in the garlic and after a minute or two of this, a paste will form.

Side note on prep: If you're making a recipe that calls for garlic and other ingredients to go into a food processor, make sure you put in the garlic first and buzz it up for a minute or two by itself. Most recipes won't remember to tell you this important piece of information, but it's the way you need to do it. Otherwise if you add all the ingredients at the same time, your garlic is more likely to stay in some big pieces and not get as finely or evenly cut, which is not what you want. So always buzz your garlic for a few seconds first until it's evenly chopped in your food processor, then add your other ingredients and process away.

I know this was a novel, but this is one of my absolute favorite things to share about!! I hope you guys learned something new, and I can't wait to cook my way through all these recipes I promised you and share them with you in future posts!! Peace, love, and garlic.

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